This is the author's account of how in the autumn of 1985, more or less on the spur of the moment, he and his wife Wanda set out to find Ireland on two wheels apiece. Lashed by storms of winter, fuelled by Guinness and warmed by thermal underwear, they set out on their travels along the highways and byways of the isle of Erin, with (bicycle's) pannier packed with maps, spare parts and a veritable library of books on Ireland's stones and stories.